Alocasia Safari Series

Anthurium

Asplenium (Bird’s Nest Ferns)

Begonia Big™

Blechnum ‘Silver Lady’®

Calathea

Heuchera & Heucherella

Homalomena ‘Emerald Gem’

Mandevilla

Musa ‘Super Dwarf Banana’™

Neoregelia

Nephrolepis

Philodendron Congo and Rojo Congo

Schefflera

Spathiphyllum

Spathoglottis (Garden Orchids)

Alocasia Safari Series Cultural Recommendations

Few plants offer the look of the tropics like Alocasia and we raised the bar a little higher with strong colorful petioles, tough durable foliage and the contrasting leaf colors of the Safari Series.

Take a look at Alocasia ‘Ebony’, ‘Ivory Coast’ and ‘Morocco’ where we took the best characteristics available and combined them into new varieties that will outperform anything on the market today. We selected varieties that are ideal for 6” or larger containers with grow times that will impress any tropical grower. Our newest introduction, ‘Velvet Elvis’ is our selection of a popular species with improved growth characteristics and the popular look of velvet. Your customers as well as end users will quickly find that Alocasia varieties are excellent interior plants that easily tolerate the common abuses of “going indoors”, low light, low humidity and periodic drying out.

All of the Alocasia Safari varieties perform well when grown under saran and/or greenhouse conditions. They show good resistance to spider mites, common Alocasia diseases and perform well in hot humid environments where other Alocasia cultivars fail.

IMPORTANT – IMPORTANT – IMPORTANT

Planting: Always plant the liner EVEN with the plant crown level or slightly above the surrounding media. Planting “high” will improve basal branching producing a fuller finished plant. Planting the liner deeper than the top of the original liner media will reduce natural branching and fullness of the finished plant. After planting, always water plants in well then keep media moist.

Media: Light, well drained media. pH 5.8 to 6.2.

Light: 50% to 70% shade. Plants grown under high light levels are generally more compact and fuller.

Fertilizer: Liquid feed @ 150-200ppm N 2X/week using 17-5-17 or 20-10-20. Every 3rd or 4th fertilization, add Magnesium Sulfate @ 1lb/100 Gallons.

Temperature: 70°F to 90°F. Will tolerate short periods of temperatures below 50°F without going dormant or dropping leaves.

Water: Keep media moist. Avoid constant media saturation.

Planting Recommendations with Approximate Grow Times⁽¹⁾

Variety/Pot Size6” Pots(2)Grow TimesRecommended6” Plugs/Pot8” Pots(2)Grow TimesRecommended8” Plugs/Pot‘Ebony’12-14 wks124-26 wks1-2‘Ivory Coast’12-14 wks124-26 wks1-2‘Morocco’12-16 wks124-28 wks1-2 ‘Velvet Elvis’ 12-16 wks 1 24-28 wks 1-2

⁽¹⁾ Grow times are based on Florida conditions. Your finish times may vary due to your climate and planting time of year.
⁽²⁾ Total time for finished product from liner planting. We recommend bumping 6″ pots when growing in larger containers.

Anthuriums have been cultivated for many decades for cut flower production. Since the mid 1980’s, Anthurium’s popularity as a flowering pot plant has increased dramatically and has become a popular addition to many foliage growers’ product lines. Anthuriums are relatively easy to grow, have attractive foliage and under the proper environment, produce long lasting flowers year round. Currently, numerous cultivars with different flower sizes, shapes, colors and some with delicate fragrances are available for the consumer. Commercially, Anthuriums are grown throughout the world with the heaviest concentrations in the United States (Florida) and The Netherlands.

Anthuriums can be divided into four basic groups; A. andreanum cultivars, inter-specific hybrids between A. andreanum cultivars and dwarf species currently referred to as ‘Andreacola’ types, A. scherzeranum hybrids, and foliage Anthuriums. Anthurium andreanum, a generally large, somewhat open structured plant with large flowers, is commonly grown for cut flower production and sometimes adaptable to pot culture. New andreanum cultivars, selected specifically for pot culture are more compact. A. andreanum primary flower colors are white, pink, red, red-orange and green. ‘Andreacola’ cultivars are small to intermediate in overall size, fuller, more compact and generally produce smaller but more numerous flowers than andreanum cultivars. ‘Andreacola’ cultivars tend to have thicker, dark green leaves and many times show resistance to the more aggressive Anthurium diseases. Primary flower colors are white, pink, red and lavender. A. scherzeranum, the first widely cultivated Anthurium pot plant, is a small, compact plant. Primary flower colors are white, pink and red. Foliage Anthuriums come in numerous shapes and sizes and represent a minor portion of the total Anthurium pot market. However, it should be noted that most foliage Anthuriums are durable plants and offer the consumer distinct forms.

Most Anthurium species are native to tropical rain forests and are primarily epiphytic in nature. Thus, in their natural habitat, they receive ample, frequent water with good drainage. In cultivation, Anthuriums prefer evenly moist media especially when actively growing. Overall, it is better to slightly underwater than overwater. Drying out may cause tip burn, root damage and reduced growth rates while over watering can also cause root damage and sudden yellowing of older leaves. Anthurium will not tolerate saturated, poorly drained soil mixes. Best results are achieved with a 1:1:1 ratio of Canadian peat, composted pine bark (watch for particle size; not too much dust) and perlite or airlite. Avoid vermiculite except in 4″ (10cm) containers. In long-term crops, i.e., 6″ (15cm) and up, vermiculite compacts and will water-log. Soil pH should be maintained between 5.5 and 6.5.

Young plants are primarily propagated by tissue culture and available commercially as 72 or 98 cell liner trays. Depending on the cultivar’s inherent branching and flowering habit, young plant producers use one to three plants (microcuttings) per liner cell. Cultural conditions, especially light intensity, are very important for young plant production. Finish growers should avoid using young plants grown under low light conditions.

Most pot Anthuriums are sold in 6″ and 8″ (15-20cm) containers, with a smaller percentage in 4″ and 10″ (10-25cm) containers. Crop finish times will vary depending on cultivar, pot size and cultural environment. Except in the case of scherzeranum, growers should consider Anthurium a long term floral crop. Under the sub-tropical climate of Florida, most 6″ container crops are finished in 8 to 1 0 months using 72 or 98 cell tray young plants. Scherzeranum is usually grown in 31/2 to 6″ (9-15cm) containers and will finish in 4 to 7 months. A young plant supplier will be able to give recommendations on the optimum container size and finish times for each individual cultivar.

Moderate but consistent levels of a complete fertilizer are important. Magnesium requirements in Anthurium plant tissue are higher than most foliage crops especially in warmer climates. Because of the long-term nature of Anthurium crops, special attention must be paid to ensure continued availability of Magnesium. Per cubic yard of soil, incorporate 10 lbs. (4.5kg) of dolomite and 31/2 lbs. (1.6kg) Hi-Cal lime to balance the Calcium and Magnesium ratio. Regular foliar applications of Magnesium sources (Epsom Salts, Magnesium Nitrate, etc.) will help prevent Magnesium deficiencies. After 24-26 weeks, a top-dressing of dolomite (3 tbsp/10″ pot) or another Magnesium source will help insure continued availability of Magnesium. Top-dressings of Epsom Salts are beneficial but short-lived.

Avoid high nutrient levels especially after planting young plants. Liquid fertilizer on a constant feed program should not exceed 250 ppm Nitrogen (N). On mature plants, occasional rates as high as 400 ppm N are acceptable, but must be alternated with watering. Tests have shown that plants given frequent doses of 300-400 ppm N grow slower, have lighter flower colors and produce thick deformed leaves. When using overhead irrigation system to dispense liquid fertilizer, a quick rinse with pure water is beneficial since liquid fertilizer left on foliage can damage leaves causing grayish corky scars. With dry fertilizer applications, it is very important to water frequently to reduce salt build-up. When using time-release fertilizers, carefully consider crop times and if necessary reapply to avoid deficiencies.

Anthuriums grow best with day temperatures of 78 to 90°F (25-32°C), and night temperatures of 70 to 75°F (21-24°C). Temperatures above 90° F may cause foliar burning, faded flower color and reduced flower life. Night temperatures between 40 to 50°F (4-10°C) can result in slow growth and yellowing of lower leaves. Scherzeranum cultivars require lower temperatures in the range of 68 to 80°F (20-27°C) daytime and 60 to 70°F (15-21°C) nights. Anthuriums will not tolerate frost or freezing conditions.

Anthuriums grow under a wide range of light intensities but their actual performance is dependent on the cultivar, elevation, temperature and nutrition. Generally, most Anthurium types grow well at light intensities ranging from 1,500 to 2,500 f.c (1627klux). Light intensities higher than 2,500f.c. (27 klux) can result in faded flower and leaf color. Scherzeranum cultivars are best grown at light intensities between 1,000 and 1,500 f.c. (11-16klux).

Preventive maintenance programs for mites, snails, slugs, worms, thrips and white flies are important. White flies are especially attracted to the new growth and once established are difficult to eradicate. A number of chemicals are effective for pest management, however, cultural conditions and cultivars will determine what you can use safely. Many growers have experienced phytotoxicity on numerous Anthurium cultivars from the use of certain pesticides. Never apply pesticides while plants are under any form of stress, i.e., moisture or hot temperatures.

Anthurium blight, caused by Xanthomonas campestris pv dieffenbachiae, is by far the greatest challenge to the anthurium grower. While many of the pot type varieties (specifically the ‘Andreacola’ varieties) are resistant or partially resistant, many of the hybrids with larger, showier flowers have no resistance. Xanthomonas is a bacterium. The pathovar Xanthomonas campestris pv dieffenbachiae is specific to plants in the Araceae family and is most pathogenic on Dieffenbachia, Aglaonema, and Anthurium. The disease can easily spread from one genus to another in this group. Syngoniums and pothos also have the potential to host strains of Xanthomonas which may be pathogenic to Anthuriums.

There is no available chemical cure for Xanthomonas blight. While some chemicals are effective as a preventive measure, none of the fungicides/bactericides in the market today will actually cure an infection. Thus, the only effective way of controlling blight is via sanitation and prevention.

Virtually all of the pot type Anthuriums in the market today are produced from tissue culture. As plants will not survive in vitro infected with Xanthomonas, plants directly harvested from tissue culture can be considered free of infection. However, young plants weaned in the greenhouse are susceptible to infection. The same sanitation practices should be in place in young plant production as those practices effective in finished production.

Since Xanthomonas can exist in plants without any visible symptoms, it is wise to isolate incoming plant material for observation before introducing into the production facility. Proper cultural practices and sanitation can be effective in prevention and spread of blight.

Cultural practices:

Keep foliage dry if possible. Drip irrigation and hard cover are essential when growing susceptible cultivars. Lower humidity will decrease guftation and can help dry the foliage faster if using overhead irrigation. Give plants ample spacing to allow for good air circulation. Avoid condensation with the use of fans. Avoid hanging plants above your Anthurium crop. High Nitrogen fertilization makes plants more susceptible to infection. Preventive maintenance programs of Copper based fungicides alternated with bactericides of streptomycin or oxytetracycline can help prevent infection. However, Copper can be phytotoxic to many cultivars!

Sanitation:

Disinfect all benches, pots, and tools coming in contact with plant material. Prevent standing water under benches. Routinely (preferably daily) rogue out any infected plants. This is most effective at the end of the day. Do this when foliage is dry and remove all infected plants and plant parts from the greenhouse premises. Avoid any unnecessary movement through aisles. Avoid cross-contamination by isolating susceptible crops. Aglaonemas imported from the tropics are frequently carriers. Inhouse vegetative propagation of Dieffenbachia and Aglaonemas should be kept far from tissue cultured plants.

Many Anthurium cultivars are susceptible to Phytophthora, Rhizoctonia, Pythium, Colletotrichum and Pseudomonas. Although there are a number of effective fungicides for these diseases (we have not seen phytotoxicity from proper use of the popular chemicals available), the best approach is prevention via cultural practices. Keep plants off the ground, provide good ventilation and avoid overhead irrigation during late afternoon or evening hours. As a matter of caution, all new pesticides should be used in a controlled test on a small percentage of each cultivar grown. Always allow four weeks for phytotoxic symptoms to appear. Most often, symptoms occur as distortion and/or discoloration of new growth.

Since their introduction, potted Anthuriums have generated a great deal of excitement at retail and with the end user. Anthuriums are durable and will survive as an indoor foliage plant for a remarkable period of time, even under adverse conditions. The big plus of course is the added canopy of color. If the last few years are any indication, Anthuriums as flowering pot plants will continue to grow in popularity. As a result of breeding programs, new and improved cultivars will be introduced which will help Anthuriums gain additional market share.

This text is a recommendation only; it is not an endorsement of any products or acceptance of any liability as a result of usage.

Update: 2.16.2012

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Ferns have always been an important group in the tropical or foliage plant industry. Their diversity of shapes and sizes offer the commercial grower and consumer almost inexhaustible choices. A popular group of ferns often referred to as “Bird’s Nest Ferns” are species of the genus Asplenium. Asplenium nidus has been a popular tropical plant going back to the Victorian era and remains a popular fern today. On the scene more recently are species and named selections of Asplenium antiquum sometimes referred to as the Japanese Bird’s Nest Fern. Both species grow in a bowl or vase shape leading to the common name Bird’s Nest Fern.

A. nidus and A. antiquum are easy to grow ferns for both the commercial grower and consumer. They lend themselves to multiple uses since they can easily be incorporated into the garden, or grown in containers for indoor or outdoor display. Bird’s Nest Ferns are excellent plants for making statements in and around the office and at home.

Asplenium nidus is a larger structured plant than A. antiquum and will grow to larger specs given time. It produces simple, broad, bright green leaves with mildly undulating or wavy margins. The most commonly grown A. antiquum varieties are named selections of the species. A. ‘Victoria’ has distinctive “wavy” fronds that grow in a beautiful rosette and was one of the first patented ferns in the United States. The newest named selections, ‘Crissie’ and ‘Leslie’ take this group of ferns to the next level of interest. As these plants mature, the ends of the fronds become branched or crested forming a very unique look. ‘Crissie’ has a more open habit and larger structure than ‘Leslie’ and is perfect for 5” to 8” containers and requires some spacing to maintain symmetry. ‘Leslie’ has a more compact, upright growth habit making a great 4” to 6” container plant that can be grown with close pot spacing.

Both A. nidus and A. antiquum varieties have similar cultural requirements and can be grown together.

Light: Mature plants can tolerate high light levels but not direct sun, but commercially grow best with 80% to 90% shade or 1,000 and 2,000 foot candles. Excessive light will slow the growth and cause frond deformities.

Media: Use a potting medium high in organic content, e.g. peat: bark or perlite (2:1 by volume), that has good water-holding capacity and good aeration. A pH of 5.5 to 6.5 is preferred.

Fertilizer: Birds Nest Ferns are light feeders and only require low doses of fertilizer. Use a fertilizer with a 17-5-17, 14-4-14 or 20-10-20 ratio. Do not apply urea or fertilizer formulas with high ammonia nitrogen. Apply at 100 ppm N with clear water irrigation every second fertilization. Excessive fertilizer will slow the growth rate and cause fronds to thicken, deform and can cause leaf necrosis especially if media is allowed to dry out.

Temperature: The best temperature for Bird’s Nest Fern growth is 70-90°F. Temperatures slightly outside of this range will not reduce plant quality but will reduce growth rates. High humidity should be maintained.

Pests and Diseases: Bird’s Nest Ferns generally do not experience a lot of pest or disease problems. Watch for bacterial leaf (frond) blight caused by Pseudomonas which is generally associated with excessive overhead irrigation or rainfall. Pests to watch for are Caterpillars, Fungus Gnats, Mealybugs, Scale and Slugs.

Grower to Grower: On arrival, place the liners in a protected area and water immediately. It is always best to plant liners as soon as possible on arrival. Do not plant the liners deep and be careful not to overwater while plants are establishing. Keep foliage dry. Drip or sub-irrigation works best for most container sizes.

Approximate finish times planted from a 72cp tray.

1. ‘Crissie’: 6” pot 24 weeks

2. ‘Lesslie’: 4” pot 16 weeks

3. Nidus: 6” pot 28 weeks+

4. ‘Victoria’: 6” pot 24 weeks+

This text is a recommendation only; it is not an endorsement of any products or acceptance of any liability as a result of usage.

Updated: 12.10.2013 Oglesby Plants International, Inc.

Blechnum 'Silver Lady'® – is an incredible selection of tissue cultured Blechnum brasiliense (dwarf tree fern).The beautiful symmetry and unique palm-like appearance of the light green fronds give this very distinct plant great marketing features. ‘Silver Lady’ grows extremely fast and is excellent for 5 inch to 10 inch containers, as well as use in moist tropical landscapes/atriums.

Handling and planting of liners: Immediately upon delivery, liners of ‘Silver Lady’ should be placed in a protected area, watered-in well and planted up as soon as possible. DO NOT ALLOW LINERS TO DRY OUT. THE YOUNG PLANTS ARE EXTREMELY SENSITIVE TO DRYING OUT. Plant the liners deep, so that the rhizome is covered with soil; otherwise, the finished product might be ‘top-heavy.’

Media: ‘Silver Lady’ requires a light, well-drained mix. Good aeration as well as water-holding capacity are important. Mixes such as 50% peat, 30% bark, and 20% perlite, or a blend of 60% peat, 20% perlite, 15% styrofoam beads plus 5% vermiculite should perform well. Adjust pH to 5.6 to 6.2.

Fertilizer: This fast-growing fern requires frequent feeding, but will not tolerate high salts. Initial fertilizations should be 70-90ppm N and K. After 3-4 weeks, when roots are well-developed, increase N to 150-200ppm (EC=1.0-1.5) with soil EC at 0.75-0.9. Fertilize two times a week when plants are young; increase to 3 to 4 applications per week after about 10-12 weeks.

Water: Water is a most crucial factor in growth and development of ‘Silver Lady.’ After planting, keep potting mix evenly moist. A waterlogged mix will inhibit root growth. Do not let the mix dry out. When roots reach the bottom of the pot, the plant will achieve maximum growth rate and will require even more water. Allow for air movement between the plants to avoid condensation.

Light: Plants grow well under a broad range of light conditions: 2500-6000 foot candles or 40 to 73% shade. Plants grown in brighter light will be more compact, harder and less susceptible to water stress.

Temperature: The optimum temperatures for growing ‘Silver Lady’ are between 74 and 90 ° F. Temperatures below 68 ° F will slow the growth, but the plant will tolerate temperatures below 40 ° F for brief periods.

Pests: Aphids, caterpillars, slugs, scale, mealybugs.

Spacing: After planting, keep pots close-packed for up to 8 weeks. Final spacing of 10” o.c. in 6” pots will allow a quality finished product in a remarkable 16 week crop time.

Other: Be sure finished product is shipped with plenty of moisture. A drench with a wetting agent will minimize stress during shipment and on the retail shelf.

This text is a recommendation only; it is not an endorsement of any products or acceptance of any liability as a result of usage.

Calatheas are native to the rainforests of Central America; thus, they require a warm, moist environment.

Temperature: Best growth comes with temperatures between 70 and 85. Avoid temperatures above 90 or below 65. Allow for good ventilation at higher temperatures. Keep humidity at a minimum of 60%.

Light: Light levels should be kept around 1500 to 1800 foot-candles.

Fertilization: Calatheas are sensitive to high salts. You will need good quality, low salt water. When incorporating dry fertilizer, use moderate rates. When using liquid fertilizers overhead, rinse plants briefly with plain water before and after the fertigation. An EC of 1.2 to 1.4 is sufficient. A ratio of N/P2O5/K2O of 1/0.4/1.8 is recommended. Insufficient nutrient levels will cause loss of color in the leaves.

Medium: As Calatheas should be kept moist at all times, it is important to have a well-drained mix with good quality peat or coir. The pH for roseo-picta types should be at 5.0. Others prefer 5.5 to 6.0. Fluorides can burn the tips and margins of older leaves. As these low pH levels make Fluorides readily available, use low-fluoride Phosphorus and water sources.

Diseases: If kept too wet, Calatheas can get Pythium and Fusarium. High salts also cause root-rot symptoms. Leaf spot diseases such as Helminthosporium will proliferate when the foliage remains wet for extended periods. In cooler periods, botrytis can be a problem.

Pests: Watch for spider mites, thrips and mealybugs. Microscopic mites can cause necrotic lesions near the margins similar to disease or Fluoride injury. Watch for occasional outbreaks of caterpillars and snails. Horticultural oils will burn the foliage of Calatheas.

This text is a recommendation only; it is not an endorsement of any products or acceptance of any liability as a result of usage.

The genus Heuchera includes at least 50 species of hardy herbaceous perennials that are native to various areas of North America. Common names include alumroot and coral bells. Heucherella are inter-generic hybrids combining two North American species, Heuchera and Tiarella. Both plants attract butterflies and hummingbirds. Hardiness Zones 4-9.

It’s the foliage that makes Heuchera a “must-have” plant for the patio and garden. Purple, black, red, orange, brown, silver, chartreuse, you name it, you can most likely find a Heuchera in that color. In late spring through early summer, bloom spikes of delicate bell shaped flowers in shades of red, pink, white, or purple appear and last for four to eight weeks. Most Heuchera are clumping or mounding in habit while some Heucherella can have a low spreading habit. They make excellent garden plants or premium container plants especially when several colors are mixed together.

The Heuchera and Heucherella varieties offered by Oglesby were carefully select for performance in the southeast U.S. and are cold as well as heat and humidity tolerant. Plugs can be planted anytime of the year and do not require vernalization. In general, both plants prefer partial shade (30-50% shade), although some cultivars will tolerate full sun. Summer in the southeast United States can be stressful time so extra shade and water during the summer season will be beneficial. Always use a high quality soil media that is average to rich fertility, holds moisture well, is well-drained and a pH of 5.8-6.2. Use liquid feed at 50 to 100 ppm or slow release fertilizer at 1 pound N per cubic yard of soil.

When planting young plants into larger containers, always plant crowns high and allow soil to settle in. Plants can exhibit crown or root rot if planted too deep or overwatered. Watch for botrytis and/or powdery mildew when plants are grown using close spacing with poor air circulation. Heuchera suffer from very few pests.

Planting and Handeling: Heuchera and Heucherella have a fibrous root system that can be damaged when being dislodged from the trays. To dislodge the plants properly, always use two hands with one hand gently pulling up on the crown of the plant and the other hand gently squeezing the individual cell the plant is growing in. By applying upward pressure while squeezing the root area the plant will dislodge intact and be ready to plant into a larger container. 

This text is a recommendation only; it is not an endorsement of any products or acceptance of any liability as a result of usage.

When starting from a Stage IV liner, plants should finish in a 6″ pot in about 5 to 6 months; 8″ pots require 9-10 months. One liner is sufficient for any container size up to 14″. Using a small container such as 3″ or 4″ as an intermediate step may inhibit lateral breaks if plants are not given ample, timely spacing.

Nutrition: Constant feed with 200 ppm N with a 3-1-2 ratio of N-P-K, including Mg and trace elements. Keep pH 6.0 to 6.5. When using dry fertilizers, use moderate rates. Occasional foliar sprays of manganese and iron will help prevent chlorosis.

Watering: Best if kept evenly moist, not wet. Will tolerate some drying out.

Light: 1000-1500 footcandles or 73-80% shade cloth.

Temperature: Tolerate growing range 60o to90o F. Hearty to 40o F.

Pests: Thrips, white flies, snails and slugs. Diseases are rare.

Flowering: Since the flowers are inconspicuous and sometimes abundant, pinching them off will enhance vegetative growth.

This text is a recommendation only; it is not an endorsement of any products or acceptance of any liability as a result of usage.

Young plants of Mandevilla are extremely sensitive to handling and environmental factors. Once established, they become robust growers in warm weather, but not without some demanding cultural attention.

On arrival, place liners under a 30 to 50% shade and water thoroughly. Plant as soon as possible into light, well drained potting mix. Peat based mixes with 30% pine bark and 15 to 20% of inert components (saw dust, sand, airlite, perlite, etc.) are recommended. The pH of the soil should not be higher than 5.8-6.0. Caution: Significant root damage can occur when dislodging plants from liner trays and during planting. To remove plants from trays with minimal root damage, hold the top of the plant while pushing the soil ball up from the bottom of the tray then applying gentle upward pressure on the top. While planting, do not press liners into potting soil. Instruct your planters to handle the liners gently and to plant in cavities and gently cover. Tight or compresses soil surrounding the newly planted liner can restrict root growth and reduce drainage causing root rots. Plants should be watered in thoroughly soon after planting.

The most critical step to success after planting is to have a strict water management program. Young plants should not be allowed to dry out during first 14 to 21 days after planting. Adequate moisture is not only critical to young plant growth and establishment, but will also reduce stress resulting from the interfacing of the liner and container media. During the first fourteen days, we recommend watering every day. If in doubt about watering or if it only “looks like rain,” water.

Upon second watering, while soil is still moist, drench plants preventively against root rot with fungicides*: Cleary’s WP or Banrot against Fusarium, Subdue against Pythium and Phytophthora or use Rootshield. As plants mature, the urea and ammoniacal forms of Nitrogen (N) is the most preferable. Incorporate 18-6-8 as the primary source of nutrients. Also, applications of fertilizers with high levels of phosphorous (9-45-15, 10-52-10) have a positive effect on growth of young plants. If necessary, top-dress with 16-6-10 to finish the crop.

Many of the newer Mandevilla cultivars available today show significantly better tolerance to common leaf spot diseases such as Anthracnose and can require less frequent applications of pesticides. Selecting full sun growing areas with good drainage and good air movement are helpful. Preventive sprays to safeguard against the spread of Anthracnose may be needed. Recommended fungicides to use on an alternating basis are Daconil, Cleary’s, Dithane, Kocide, Junction, Spectro 90, Pageant and Zyban. To deter nematodes, grow off ground or on blocks.

Insects to scout for are: thrip, aphids, spider mites, mealy bugs and particularly white flies, which can be persistent and require regimented spray programs. Following are recommended insecticides*: Thiodan, Sanmite, Talstar, Flagship, Safari, Avid, Orthene (Turf, Tree & Ornamentals), Mavrik, Conserve EC, TriStar, Enstar, Marathon, Suffoil and M-Pede. Recommended miticides include: Sultan, Floramite, Hexygon and Ovation.

*This text is a recommendation only; it is not an endorsement of any products or acceptance of any liability as a result of usage. Always conduct small tests with your plants under your unique conditions before implementing pesticide spray programs.

Updated: January 8, 2016. Copyright Oglesby Plants International, Inc. 2010-2016

Soil: Bananas require light, well drained soil with high water holding capacity (60% peat-20% perlite-20% vermiculite; 60% peat-25% fine bark-15%sand). Bananas can be grown in straight long fiber peat moss if it is not compressed in the potting container. When planting, do not compress potting soil. Plant young plants in soil cavities and gently cover roots.

Temperature: The soil (root) temperature is one of the most important factors affecting the growth of bananas and growers should try to maintain 70oF (21o C) or higher to minimize crop time. Soil temperature lower than 65oF (18oC) will extend crop time, plants will develop shorter ‘internodes’. Lower temperatures may be used to extend shelf life and your selling window. Bananas should be grown with air temperature of 74-90oF (23-32oC). Higher temperatures do not negatively affect plant growth if the moisture and nutrients are controlled well.

Light: Super Dwarf BananaTM will tolerate a wide range of light intensities but grow best under lower light conditions of 400-1200 footcandles (4300-13000 lux). Under higher light levels (2,000 footcandles or 22000 lux) plants are harder, more compact, develop leaves with red spots and it becomes more difficult to control the moisture and nutrient levels.

Water: Bananas require a lot of water for growth. Do not allow the soil to dry. When roots reach the bottom of the pot, plants start to grow very rapidly and require more water and nutrients from the soil.

Nutrient level in the soil & leaf: At the sixth or seventh leaf stage, plants require liquid feeding with Nitrogen (N) @ 300ppm and Potassium (K) @ 400ppm. The frequency of liquid feeding at the beginning can be once a week, later (toward the end of the crop cycle) increased to twice a week. The chart below lists the four most important nutrient elements and the recommended level to maintain for both soil and leaf analysis.

Soluble salts in the soil at the beginning of the culture should be about EC 1.0 and later after the stage of the seventh leaf EC 1.5. In this stage it is very important to maintain high levels of N, K, B and Ca in the soil. Additional foliar feeding may be necessary to keep young leaves dark green.

Insects: Main insect problems are Spider Mite and White Fly. Do not apply ORTHENE (Acephate, 0,S-Dimethyl! acetylphos-phoramidothioate) or LANNATE (Methomyl, S-methyl N-/(methylcarbamoyl)oxy/thioacetimidate on bananas. Thiodan (Endosulfan) can cause leaf burning.

Disease: Bacterial leaf spots caused by: Pseudomonas, Erwinia and Xanthomonas may occur when spacing is too close and leaves stay wet for long periods of time.

This text is a recommendation only, it is not an endorsement of any products or acceptance of any liability as a result of usage.

If you are looking for long lasting color for the interior or tropical landscape then Neoregelia is the plant you are looking for. Six months or more of color “on the job” is not unusual.

General culture: Good ventilation is essential for successful growing of Bromeliads in general and Neoregelia is no exception. For most varieties, maintain humidity levels between 65% and 80% and maintain water in the cups at all times. If the cups are allowed to dry out, the leaves may become brittle and distorted. Most large growers of Bromeliads install reverse osmosis systems to purify their irrigation water. This ensures a constant supply of high quality water for their Bromeliad program.

Depending on the size of plant you want to market, Neoregelia can be on your bench for 12 months or more. Growers use various techniques to improve space use such as first planting young plants in a 4” (or smaller) pot with close spacing then repotting them into 6” or larger pots after 3 to 6 months. There are also techniques that can be used to accelerate foliage color development (See Foliage Color below).

Growing media: Porosity and drainage are essential for root development. If you use peat, it must be high quality fibrous peat. Various types of wood chips, fir bark, pine bark, or redwood chips are good choices to achieve porosity as is Perlite. Coir (coconut fiber) is gaining in popularity as a good substrate for this group and some growers are using pure coir. There are many good bagged commercial mixes that work well. Maintain media ph at 5.0 to 5.5.

Fertilization: N P K ratio should be 1:1:1 or 1:1.5:2. Higher levels of P and K are acceptable as long as the EC does not exceed 1.5. Use acidic fertilizers. Liquid feed at a rate of 100 to 200 ppm, depending on whether you are constantly feeding, or alternating with water. After applying liquid feed always rinse the foliage briefly with plain water afterwards. Use lower rates of fertilizers with very young plants: 50 to 100 ppm N. Excessive Nitrogen will cause weak, elongated leaves, and will delay or prevent foliage color in Neoregelia.

IMPORTANT: Although copper (Cu) is an essential element for growth in all plants, including Bromeliads, high levels of Cu such as copper based fungicides are toxic to Bromeliads. Avoid fungicides containing copper such as the brand names Kocide and Phyton 27. Another source of copper can be certain types of pressure-treated wood used in the construction of shade houses in mild climates. Growing Bromeliads under pressure-treated wood can cause damage from the leaching copper due to rain. If adding supplemental trace element mixes, avoid high levels of copper, as well as boron, zinc, and manganese.

Temperature: Optimal temperatures for most Neoregelia range from 55 to 85F. Brief periods down to 45F usually won’t affect growth. Temperatures above 90F will slow or stop growth, as well as increase disease susceptibility.

Light: Neoregelia can successfully be grown under saran shade cloth or hard top greenhouses with shade ratings of 50% to 73% (2,500 to 5,000ftc).

Diseases: If given good ventilation and grown on raised benches, diseases are generally not a problem.

Pythium will be a problem if medium is kept consistently too moist. For control and/or prevention, drench with Subdue. Drench with Cleary’s 3336 to prevent Fusarium and Rhizoctonia. Helminthosporium, a leaf spot disease, can be controlled with Mancozeb. Exserohilum, a leaf spot fungus which makes linear lesions, has a propensity to infect Neoregelia. A “sprenching” of Dithane will provide control.

Pests: Scale and mealybugs are the most common pests. These can be controlled with Malathion, Enstar, Flagship, Marathon, Safari or Talstar. Horticulture Oils work well, but do not apply in excessive heat or light. If mosquitoes in the cups are a problem, spray with Malathion.

Foliage coloring: Although the foliage coloring of Neoregelia occurs naturally, there are techniques growers can use to enhance and speedup the display of color. As discussed above, excessive fertilization can delay coloring. To enhance/induce foliage color in Neoregelia, discontinue fertilization as plants approach maturity. One approach that is successful is when potting from 4” to 6” (or larger) pots, do not incorporate dry fertilizers in the 6” pot’s media. Thereafter, use low rates of liquid fertilizers at a maximum of 100 ppm.

Low doses of Florel (5ml per gallon) can be used to help growers induce foliage color on younger plants and/or improve the uniformity of coloring within the crop without inducing flowering. When plants are within 8-12 weeks of the desired marketing size, apply a light but thorough spray of 5ml Florel per gallon of water late in the day. Allow the Florel spray to remain on the foliage overnight, rinsing the foliage the next morning. Some growers have experienced leaf scaring applying Florel on plants with fertilizer residue on the leaves so it is a good practice to rinse the plants thoroughly the day before application. A heavy application of Florel on the foliage or using concentrations over 5ml/gallon may induce flowering which is not desirable. We do not recommend the application of Florel to plants younger than 6 months. Never use ethylene treatments on Neoregelia.

Revised August, 2012, OGLESBY PLANTS INTERNATIONAL, INC.

This text is a recommendation only; it is not an endorsement of any products or acceptance of any liability as a result of usage.

Nephrolepis is the most widely grown genus of tropical ferns. Nephrolepis exaltata bostoniensis, the Boston fern, is the most popular and is usually grown in hanging baskets.

Media: Water-holding capacity and good drainage are essential. Ferns do not tolerate ‘wet feet’. Use a blend of peat with perlite, bark or other materials for good drainage. Adjust pH between 5.0 and 6.0.

Nutrition: Ferns do well with constant feed using 20-20-20 or 20-10-20 at 125 to 175ppm. Add a source for Sulfur occasionally such as magnesium sulfate. Be sure to leach regularly to prevent salt build-up. Keep EC below 1.5. If applying liquid feed to the foliage, be sure to rinse off afterwards. When incorporating dry fertilizer in the medium, do not include extra trace element blends.

Light: Boston fern should be grown under 1500 to 3000 foot-candles. If growing in warm climates under shade cloth, use 50 to 80% shade. Frond length will increase with shade level. The more upright varieties, such as ‘Emerald Queen’, are often grown under much brighter light ranging from 50% shade to full sun.

Temperature: While ferns will tolerate great extremes of temperatures, optimal growth occurs between 70° and 90°F. Temperatures below 60° will significantly slow growth.

Diseases: As Botrytis is the most common disease problem in Boston fern, drip irrigation will minimize the potential for infection. Botrytis is most active under low temperatures and high humidity. Rhizoctonia and Pythium may also challenge the fern grower. Rhizoctonia can be prevented by keeping the foliage as dry as possible. Providing good air circulation should help minimize the potential for both Botrytis and Rhizoctonia. Pythium is often a result of extreme fluctuations of moisture levels in the growing medium or injury to the roots due to excessive salts.

Ferns do not host mites. Scale and mealybugs are rarely encountered under good growing conditions. Thrips can be a problem. Worms (larvae of Lepidoptera) are the most prevalent problem. Some growers have experienced resistance to Bacillus thuringiensis.

Copper compounds and mancozeb may cause phytotoxicity.

This text is a recommendation only; it is not an endorsement of any products or acceptance of any liability as a result of usage.

Philodendron ‘Congo’ PAT#11724 and ‘Rojo Congo’ PAT#14116 are medium to large, self-heading Philodendrons with very thick, glossy leaves suitable for interior use in 6” to 10” containers. ‘Congo’ is green. The new foliage of ‘Rojo Congo’ opens red and matures to a dark green with a red blush. The leaf petioles remain bright red.

Handling liners: Young plants are supplied as 98 cell pack liners. Liners of the Congos should be potted up as soon as possible after delivery. Plant them deep so that the base of the plant is covered with soil. This will ensure that the finished plant will not ‘wobble’. First plant into 4” or 6” pots. After a full root-ball has developed, pot up into larger pots. For fullness, use 2 to 3 plants for a finished 10” container.

Soil: The Congos require a light, well-drained soil and good aeration. Use mixes such as 50% Canadian peat, 30% bark, and 20% perlite; or 60% Canadian peat, 25% bark, and 15% perlite. The pH should be between 5.5 and 6.0. In order to keep the pH at this level, use a modest amount (2-3#) of dolomite per cubic yard (depending on the pH of the peat). Incorporate 1 to 2# gypsum for additional calcium. If the pH creeps above 6.0, top dress with granular sulfur (15 grams per 10” pot should suffice), or drench with iron sulfate. Canadian peat is helpful in maintaining a low ph.

Fertilizer: The Congos are fairly heavy feeders. Incorporate a slow release fertilizer such as 15-9-12 with 1 lb./cubic yard of magnesium sulfate into the soil before planting. ‘Congo’ is a fast growing philodendron, so when roots are well developed (about 6-8 weeks after planting) the plants can be fertilized with a liquid fertilizer such as 24-8-16 or 20-10-20 at a rate of 150 to 200 ppm N (EC~1-1.5) maintaining soil EC~1.0. As plants mature, apply additional Magnesium weekly.

Water: Over-watering will induce root rot in Philodendrons. While the young plants establish new roots keep the soil evenly moist but do not over water. After the roots have penetrated beyond the liner root ball, monitor moisture levels carefully.

Light: In order to maintain good foliage color and growth, light levels should be kept between 1500 to 2500 f.c. (73%-80% saran). Higher light may cause yellowing and susceptibility to diseases.

Temperature: The optimum day temperature for the Congos is 76 to 86o F, with soil temperature no less than 65. Although the plants will tolerate temperatures as high as 104 for brief periods, higher temperatures will reduce growth rate and increase disease susceptibility. Maintain night temperatures between 65 and 72oF. Again, lower temperatures are tolerated, but will slow growth. Damage can occur at 40oF.

Pests: Thrips, aphids, spider mites, and scale. The Congos can host Tumid mites (red mites) which may cause small necrotic spots (see enclosure). Significant crop damage can occur with only a few Tumid mites, so preventive applications are important (rotate Vendex, Avid (6 oz. rate), and Kelthane).

Diseases:

Root rots such as Phytophthora and Pythium are a problem only if the soil is too heavy or too wet. Under dry conditions, the plant is fairly resistant to Erwinia. Extremely hot, wet conditions are conducive to infections of Erwinia. When these conditions prevail, a preventive program of copper-based bactericides is suggested.

Other: These plants are fairly vigorous growers. From a liner to 6” pot takes 16 to 18 weeks of growth. 3 plants in a 10” pot should finish in 7 to 8 months. Plants should have a fully developed rootball before shipping and going into the interior.

This text is a recommendation only; it is not an endorsement of any products or acceptance of any liability as a result of usage.

Schefflera ‘Amate’®, ‘Alpine Jr.’™ and ‘Amate’® Soleil(ppaf) are outstanding selections of the common Schefflera (Brassaia actinophylla). Oglesby introduced Amate to the foliage industry over three decades ago and today it is well know as a reliable and traditional part of many foliage growers’ product line. Alpine Jr. and Soleil are new introductions that add a new shape and a new color to this well established plant group.

Attributes: The phenomenal demand for Oglesby’s ‘Amate’ is the result of superior cloned qualities not found in regular seed grown Schefflera. Commercial growers appreciate Amates tolerance to Alternaria leaf spot and spider mites while interior landscapers have found that Amate’s bold, tough and naturally glossy leaves hold tightly even under low light interior environments. Whether grown in 8 inch pots or as large specimens, a properly grown Amate always has a uniform appearance with a natural, high gloss and deep green color.

‘Alpine Jr.’tm was derived from Amate and maintains all of its best characteristics. Alpine Jr. has a distinct columnar shape with tight internodes and short petioles requiring less horizontal space allowing more plants per square foot of growing area and easier utilization as an interior plant.

‘Amate’® Soleilppaf was selected as TPIE 2011 “Most Unusual Plant Specimen”. Soleil has bright chartreuse foliage that can quickly brighten up any interior space. Soleil maintains all of the great characteristics of the original Amate presented in a lively new color.

Presentation:

‘Amate’ is recommended for 8, 10 and 14 inch containers. Growers usually elect to plant 1 to 2 young plants per 8 inch container, 3 plants per 10 to 12 inch container and 3 to 4 plants per 14 inch and larger container sizes.

‘Alpine Jr.’ is recommended for 6, 8 and 10 inch containers using 1 young plant per container.

‘Soleil’ is recommended for 6, 8 and 10 inch containers. Plant 1 young plant per 6 inch, 2 plants per 8 inch container and 3 plants per 10 inch container.

Cultural Notes: Schefflera is generally an easy to grow crop as long as some simple guidelines are followed. Please note that we present specific recommendations for ‘Amate’® Soleil where needed since some changes to your growing procedures may be required to be successful.

General cultural points to stress are timely crop spacing, well-drained soil mixes and proper nutrition. Like many crops, Schefflera can become thin, uneven and appear top heavy if not spaced at the proper time. Root rot problems can occur when grown in heavy soil mixes and/or when plants are over watered either from irrigation or from frequent or heavy rains. As a moderate to fast grower, a complete fertilizer, including micro elements, needs to be steadily available. Growth rates can be reduced due to lack of nutrients, poor soil drainage and/or root restriction.

Media: Potting media used for Schefflera must have good aeration, especially if plants are grown where they are subjected to rainfall. Root loss may be extensive during rainy periods if soil oxygen levels are low. Maintain pH between 5.8 and 6.5. Iron toxicity, expressed as a brown mottling on older leaves can occur when media pH drops below 5.8.

Light:

Amate and Alpine Jr.

Grow and ship from light levels between 30 to 63% shade (3,000 to 6,000 foot candles). Plants grown under higher light levels should be acclimated prior to shipping if intended for interior use.

Soleil

Prefers lower light levels. 50-63% shade gives the best structure and enhances color. When grown under high light conditions, Soleil leaves can develop necrotic spots especially in combination with warm temperatures.

Nutrition: High quality plants can be grown at the light levels recommended above with a 3-1-2 ratio fertilizer, such as 9-3-6 or 18-6-12 with micronutrients. Higher fertilizer levels will be necessary to produce plants of good quality if higher light levels are provided. Do not apply supplemental micronutrients.

Pests

Amate and Alpine Jr.

Occasionally aphids may occur on new growth. Apply Endeavour, Marathon, Orthene or Safari.

Alternaria Leaf Spot: Chipco, Compass, Pageant or Medallion. Many times leaf spots appear to be associated with Aphid infestations.

Root rots (Fusarium, Pythium, Phytophthora) are generally associated with poor media drainage and/or overwatering: Drench with RootShield or a Clearys + Subdue mixture.

Soleil

Under some grower’s conditions we have noted that Soleil shows more sensitivity to chemical applications than Amate and Alpine Jr. In general we recommend avoiding pesticides from emulsifiable formulations.

Apids: Apply Endeavour, Marathon or Safari. Do not use Orthene (Acephate).

Alternaria Leaf Spot: Chipco, Compass, Pageant or Medallion.

Root rots (Fusarium, Pythium, Phytophthora) are generally associated with poor media drainage and/or overwatering: Drench with RootShield or a Clearys + Subdue mixture. Avoid drenches or heavy sprays with any fungicide containing dithiocarbamates such as Mancozeb.

Pesticides Phytotoxic Alert: We would like to alert commercial growers that the common insecticides listed below have shown phytotoxic problems on Schefflera ‘Amate’, ‘Alpine Jr’ and ‘Soleil’ under various growing conditions. The main observed symptoms (see pictures) are “ring spots” on the leaves along with leaf deformity. The severity of the symptoms can vary from mild to extreme. We urge growers to use these chemicals with extreme caution…

• Magnus (active ingredient Fenazaquin)

• Shuttle (active ingredient Acequinocyl)

• Sirrocco (active ingredient Bifenazate and Abamaectin

• Kontos (active ingredient Spirotetramat)

• Avid (active ingredient Abamaectin

There are many good reasons why Spathiphyllum is one of the most popular tropical plants in the business. They work! They work for the grower, the shipper, the retailer and the consumer. For the grower, they offer easy to grow tropical color with varieties available for container sizes from 4 inch to 14 inch. They are durable plants and handle the rigors of shipping, handling and the varied retail environments. But the BIG win is for the consumer. They fit into an interior environment with ease, are easy to care for and can re-bloom even under interior condition.

Oglesby has been breeding Spathiphyllum since the early 1970’s and over the years has introduced varieties that have set the standard for all other varieties. We realize that the number and scope of our listed varieties can be confusing but there is a purpose to our method. We have found that within a size range (i.e. 6, 8, 10″+ varieties), what works for one grower may not work for the next. Please don’t hesitate to call us with your questions. We will be happy to help you choose the right variety and container size for your commercial operation.

A Commercial Growers Guide to Spathiphyllum

For the commercial grower, Oglesby Plants International offers young plants (starter plants) of Spathiphyllum grown from tissue culture plants. The propagation of Spathiphyllum by tissue culture offers the grower the advantage of selected named varieties, improved crop uniformity and year round availability. Since this crop is backed by extensive breeding programs, commercial growers and consumers can expect a consistent supply of new and improved cultivars.

Potting Medium: Spathiphyllums require a potting mix with good drainage and water holding capacity. Generally a 1:1:1 ratio of peat, perlite, bark is a common potting mix for the southern United States, while course peat moss is common in Europe. Maintain pH at 5.8 to 6.5.

Nutrition: N-P-K ratio of 3:1:2 applied as a slow release or liquid feed produces high quality plants. Slow release dry fertilizers, constant feed liquid fertilization or combinations of both are equally effective methods of applying nutrients. Many growers incorporate slow release fertilizer in the potting mix supplementing later with liquid or additional dry applications. Additionally, many growers use a weekly foliar nutrient spray of 1 lb. Urea + 1 lb. Potassium Nitrate + 1 lb. Magnesium Nitrate per 100 gallons. A soluble source of trace elements can also be added to the above mix.

Watch for the following nutritional deficiency symptoms: Magnesium (Mg) deficiency, a problem with some cultivars, appears as golden-yellow margins on lower leaves. Prevention of Mg deficiency via supplemental Mg is much more effective than trying to reverse an Mg deficiency. Iron (Fe) and Manganese (Mn) deficiencies exhibited as reduced growth rates and chlorotic leaves can occur during winter months when the soil temperature is below 65°F (18C). Sulfur (S) deficiency, exhibited as overall chlorosis of foliage, is sometimes seen when using highly refined, low sulfur fertilizers. Boron (B) deficiency may be a cause of longitudinal ribbing of the leaves, often seen on new growth.

Watering: Irrigation frequency should be designed to keep the soil medium evenly moist during all phases of the crop cycle. Spathiphyllums easily tolerate overhead irrigation and do exceptionally well with drip. Spathiphyllums do not tolerate saturated soil conditions for extended periods of time. Various diseases can easily infect over-watered Spathiphyllum causing wilted or collapsed leaves, necrosis along leaf margins and extensive root damage.

Light: Production light intensities are somewhat cultivar dependent although a range of 800 f.c. to 2500 f.c. (9 – 27 klux) is commonly used. Plants grown in the lower foot-candle range tend to have longer petioles, reduced branching, a softer appearance and darker green color (pending nutrition). Under higher light intensities, the plants tend to be more compact, exhibit more branching and are lighter in color. Plants grown under excessive light intensities exhibit curled, pale or chlorotic leaves. Plants grown at the extremes of the light intensity range may produce fewer flowers than those grown in the central range.

Temperature: The optimum temperature range for Spathiphyllum is 68°F (20C) nights and up to 90°F (32C) days but will tolerate lows of 45°F (7C) and highs of 95°F (35C). Spathiphyllum will not tolerate frost or even short term freezing temperatures without foliar damage and possible crop loss. Plants grown at temperatures above 95°F for extended periods can exhibit narrow leaves (strap leaf), loss of color, inhibited root development and reduced flower quantity and quality.

Diseases: Spathiphyllum disease problems are directly related to the cultivar, climate, sanitation practices and cultural conditions. Plants grown in shade house structures with overhead irrigation, frequent rains and warm temperatures will be challenged by diseases more frequently than greenhouse grown plants. Common diseases such as aerial blight (Phytophthora), Myrothecium leaf spot and Pythium root rot can be effectively controlled or prevented culturally and chemically.

The most important disease problem that can affect every Spathiphyllum grower is a root rot caused by the soil borne fungus Cylindrocladium spathiphylli. This potent and highly infectious disease can cause rapid death of infected plants. The first symptoms are premature yellowing of lower leaves, followed by wilt and collapse of the entire plant at the crown. Occasionally one can see tell-tale necrotic black lesions at the base of the petiole of infected plants.

Terraguard 50WP, as a drench at 4 to 8 oz. per 100 gallons, has been the best chemical control until recently. Cleary 3336 50WP (8 to 32 oz. per 100 gal) and Medallion 50WP (1 to 4 oz. per 100 gal) also provide good control. However, good sanitation and cultural practices are essential for effective prevention.

Keep plants off the ground. Use clean pots. Time your watering so that foliage dries down before night. Keep benches, carts and trailers clean. Rogue out symptomatic plants at the end of the day when foliage is dry. Remove all infected material from the growing area. Avoid unnecessary traffic through the growing area. Disinfect growing areas between crops. Rapid fluctuations in moisture levels from wet to dry will make plants more susceptible to infection. Thus, overgrown plants are particularly susceptible.

Although iprodione (active ingredient in Chipco 26019) is no longer labeled for use on Spathiphyllum in the United States, growers should be aware that it causes extreme phytotoxicity on some varieties, especially ‘Sensation’. Even drift from applications on adjacent crops can have long term negative effects.

Insects: The insect pests of Spathiphyllum include aphids, caterpillars, mealy bugs, scales, thrips and white flies. Although this list seems substantial, insect pests are relatively minor problems for the grower since effective chemical controls are available. One exception should be noted here. Thrips have a voracious affinity for some of the larger leafed varieties. If left unchecked, the damage can become severe. In saran houses, we recommend a preventative maintenance program. It is important to spray to run-off because thrips accumulate in the leaf whorl and do their damage on emerging leaves.

Growth Regulators: Two growth regulators are commonly used on Spathiphyllum, Benzyladenine (BA) and Gibberellic acid (GA). BA is very effective at enhancing the branching and fullness of the plant and is generally used at the young plant (liner) stage. In addition to young plant treatments, some growers also apply BA shortly after young plants have been planted into a larger pot. Enhancing branching qualities and fullness are especially important to the small pot grower since shorter production times limit the impact of natural branching. BA can be applied as a spray or drench at 250 to 1000 ppm. BA treatments can inhibit root development if applied before roots are well established. The overall effect of a BA application is dependent on cultivar, BA concentration, stage of growth, application method and season.

GA is used extensively to force early or year round flowering of Spathiphyllum. With maturity, Spathiphyllum will naturally flower consistently in the spring and sporadically during the rest of the year. Since most Spathiphyllum are sold with flowers, growers use GA to gain year round sales advantage while also allowing programming crops for holidays, promotions or weekly orders. With GA, growers can also force early flowering to allow the production of smaller pot sizes. A standard treatment is a single foliar spray of 150-250 ppm GA, 8 to 15 weeks prior to sale. The spray concentration and time between treatment and flowering depend on cultivar and season of the year. Some cultivars produce good quality flowers after treatment while others do not. We do not recommend the application of GA on Spathiphyllum ‘Sensation’ since it is by design a “foliage” type. Natural flowers will occur, but this bold and beautiful variety does not really need flowers to sell.

Treated plants may exhibit narrowing of new leaves, stretching of the petioles and distorted flowers. Each grower needs to test GA in their facilities and with their cultivars. Growers also need to determine their market’s tolerance to some of the negative quality issues discussed above. All growth regulators should be applied carefully and uniformly over the entire crop to ensure consistent results. Never apply growth regulators when plants are under stressful conditions.

The application of the above growth regulators may not be legal in all growing areas. Many growers have concerns that currently labeled growth regulators will eventually be eliminated or their application severely restricted. Spathiphyllum breeders are aware of these concerns and have recently introduced new cultivars that naturally exhibit improved branching and flowering habits.

Production Methods: Most finish growers use 10 to 14 week old tissue cultured young plants to line out larger pot sizes. Oglesby young plants are grown and delivered to the finished grower in cell pack trays as small as 162 to as large as 38 cells per tray where the most common tray size is 72 cells per tray. Depending on the Spathiphyllum variety and the target pot size, we plant from 1 to 3 microcuttings in each cell. Multiple plants per cell help ensure that the finish product will be more uniform, will be fuller and have a higher flower count then finish product planted with 1 microcutting. Obviously, young plants with multiple plants per cell have a higher cost than those with fewer plants. Oglesby specifies how many plants (microcuttings) were planted in each cell by using terms such as “plants per cell” or “pp”. The finished grower’s choice of the young plant cell size as well as the determination of plant material, i.e., number of plants per cell, is primarily dictated by the growers needs and/or market requirements.

Grow Times: Grow times are directly related to the cultivar, pot size, starter plant and cultural environment. Generally, a 3-4″ pot requires 3 to 5 months, 6″ pot 4 to 9 months, 8″ (20cm) pot 7 to 11 months, 10″ (25cm) pot 8 to 12 months and a 14″ (35cm) pot 12 to 20 months. Growers should consult with their young plant supplier for cultivar specific grow times.

* NUTRITIONAL REQUIREMENTS OF ‘SWEET PABLO’ PAT#10817

It’s nice to be special and ‘Sweet Pablo’ requires a little extra effort but it’s well worth it. Since ‘Sweet Pablo’ is one of the fastest growing varieties of Spathiphyllum, its nutritional demands exceed those of other slower growing varieties. Foliage yellowing of ‘Sweet Pablo’ is usually not a single elemental deficiency, but rather an indication of the increased demands of this variety. This yellowing can be easily prevented or corrected.

If you are using a mix with pre-incorporated slow-release fertilizer, you will need to supplement with a top-dressing of a fast release 14-14-14, or other comparable blends. Use moderate levels at planting and at regular intervals throughout the crop time. Drenches of 20-20-20 or a similar fertilizer will keep the plant actively growing and green. If the plants become yellow, liquid foliar sprays will effectively green them up. Several applications may be required. Because of the very waxy cuticle on the upper surface of the leaves, foliar applications should be more effective when applied to the lower surfaces of the leaves.

If you are on a liquid program in a greenhouse, a constant feed of 20-20-20 at 200 ppm is ample. When alternating liquid feed with watering, increase the concentration to 250 ppm, being sure to leach well when watering.

** During our mild Florida winters, Spathiphyllum can be successfully grown under 63 to 73% saran. Some varieties even tolerate such high light levels during the summer months. Not so for Sensation. Bright light will ‘gray’ the black-green foliage and reduce the attractive interveinal ribbing, and in fact, will greatly reduce leaf expansion. A quality-grown ‘Sensation’ requires at least 80% shade in the summer. It has been observed that the best quality Sensations have been grown in shade levels as high as 90%. When grown under heavier shade, cultural management is easier too; i.e., water and fertilization. The less stress the better!

If the design of the greenhouse will permit, separate layers of saran to create an air space or buffer zone. This will enhance the quality of the light, and help cool the house. Keep in mind that as saran ages, light penetration increases; i.e., old 73% saran may in fact be closer to 50%

Please take these notes as a friendly reminder that quality results in repeat sales.

For more details or information please call 1.800.762.0022, 850.762.3296 or email us at info@oglesbytc.com.

This text is a recommendation only; it is not an endorsement of any products or acceptance of any liability as a result of usage. Treatment options and availability will vary over time and with your location.

Updated January 25, 2015

Spathoglottis is a genus of tropical, terrestrial orchids with 40+ species. The foliage is palmlike with showy flower spikes producing successive flowering over time. Flower colors range from purple to yellow to white. Sometimes referred to as “Garden Orchids”, Spathoglottis offer year round color in landscape ground beds in warm climates or an interesting warm season flowering patio plant for cooler climates.

Light: Spathoglottis will grow well under light shade to full sun conditions. Foliage color and appearance is best when grown under 30 to 73% saran cloth. Under greenhouse conditions, plants will flower well at 1,500 to 2,500 foot candles.

Water: Keep plants evenly moist. They will tolerate some drying periodically but prefer even moisture. Over watering can cause root or crown rots.

Media: Well-drained, fibrous peat based soil mix incorporating at least 20% perlite or airlite. A mix of 60% peat, 20% perlite or airlite and 20% bark should work well under most conditions. Most Spathoglottis have a vigorous root system and require standard or deep containers. Azalea pots or bulb pans are not recommended since they tend to hold excessive moisture.

Nutrition: Spathoglottis are fast growing and require a higher than average nutrient supply. Nutritional requirements will vary with light and temperature conditions. Constant liquid fertilization at 150ppm Nitrogen works well. If incorporating a slow release fertilizer, use up to 15 pounds per cubic yard. However, be cautious with trace elements. Avoid repeated sprays with trace element mixes, Manganese and Iron can accumulate and cause phytotoxicity.

Temperature: As a tropical plant, Spathoglottis require daytime temperatures above 75° F and nights above 60° F for vigorous growth and flowering. Plants may drop leaves and go dormant with extended temperatures below 40° F. Spathoglottis will rarely survive freezing temperatures.

Pests: Susceptible to most common pests; however, no particular pest seems to pose serious problems. Watch for spider mites under greenhouse or interior conditions.

Diseases: Botrytis flower mold, Anthracnose. Root and/or Crown rot if over watered or grown in poorly drained media.

Tips: You can expect flowering 5 to 7 months after planting a single tissue cultured young plant in a 5 to 6 inch pot. Allow 7 to 9 months for a full 8 inch pot. Spathoglottis can be grown with very close spacing in the nursery without compromising quality. Upon maturity, plants will bloom relatively non-stop provided warmth, bright light, and good nutrition. Flowers open a few at a time at the top of the spike. Each spike can last for months.

This text is a recommendation only; it is not an endorsement of any products or acceptance or any liability as a result of usage.

Updated: 1.03.2013