GENERAL CULTURE
One important characteristic applies to all genera:
Although Copper is an essential element for growth in all plants, including
Bromeliads, high levels of Cu such as Copper based fungicides are toxic
to Bromeliads. Avoid such products as Kocide and Phyton 27. Another
source of Copper can be certain types of pressure-treated wood. Some
shade houses in mild climates are made of pressure treated lumber. Growing
Bromeliad under such wood could cause damage from leaching copper.
If adding supplemental trace element mixes, avoid high
levels of Copper, as well as Boron, Zinc, and Manganese.
Good ventilation is essential for successful growing
of Bromeliads.
For most varieties, maintain humidity levels between
65% and 80%.
Under Florida growing conditions, maintain water in
the cups at all times. If the cups are allowed to dry out, the leaves
may become brittle and distorted.
GROWING MEDIA
Again, porosity and drainage are essential for root
development in Bromeliads. If you use peat, it must be high quality
fibrous peat. Various types of wood chips, fir bark, pine bark, or redwood
chips are good choices to achieve porosity. Perlite is good also. Coir
(coconut fiber) is gaining in popularity as a good substrate for this
group. Some growers are using pure coir. There are many good commercial
mixes that work well.
Maintain pH at 5.0 to 5.5. Add about one pound of dolomite
per cubic yard as a source of calcium and magnesium.
FERTILIZATION
Excessive Nitrogen will cause weak, elongated leaves,
and can delay or prevent color in the foliage of Neoregelias. N P K
ratio should be 1: 1: 1 or 1:1.5:2. Higher levels of P and K are acceptable
as long as the EC does not exceed 1.5. Use acidic fertilizers.
Liquid feed at a rate of 100 to 200 ppm, depending
on whether you are constantly feeding, or alternating with water. After
applying liquid feed over young plants, always wash briefly with plain
water afterwards.
Use lower rates of fertilizers with very young plants:
50 to 100 ppm N.
TEMPERATURE
Optimal temperatures for most Bromeliads range from
55o to 85oF. Brief periods down to 45oF
usually won't affect growth. Temperatures above 95oF will
slow or stop growth, as well as increase disease susceptibility.
DISEASES
Pythium will be a problem if medium is kept too moist.
For control and/or prevention, drench with Subdue. Drench with Cleary's
3336 to prevent Fusarium and Rhizoctonia.
Helminthosporium, a leaf spot disease, can be controlled
with mancozeb.
Exerohilum, a leaf spot fungus which makes linear lesions,
has a propensity to infect Neoregelias. A 'sprenching' of Dithane will
provide control. Neos should be grown dryer than Guzmanias or Vriesias
to prevent this and other fungi.
If given good ventilation and grown on benches, diseases
are generally not a problem.
PESTS
Scale and mealybug are the most common pests. These
can be controlled with Malathion, Enstar, Mavrik, Marathon, Talstar.
Horticulture Oils work well, but do not apply in excessive heat. If
mosquitoes in the cups are a problem, spray with Malathion.
FORCE BLOOMING
Most if not all Bromeliads can be force-bloomed with
ethylene compounds such as Florel. These compounds can be sprayed on
parts of a crop to insure salable plants in spike or in color at desired
seasons. Recommended rates for application of Florel (ethrel) vary from
1.5 oz. to 4 oz. (and up) per gallon. With a tank of gaseous material,
individual plants can be forced by bubbling the gas into the cup of
the plant, or bubbling gas into a bucket of water, then applying to
the cup of the plant. Plants should flower about two months after treatment.
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