Neoregelia

If you are looking for long lasting color for the interior or tropical landscape then Neoregelia is the plant you are looking for. Unlike other Neoregelias, our hybrids develop vivid color before the natural bloom cycle giving the consumer extended beauty and value. Six months or more of color “on the job” is not unusual.

GENERAL CULTURE

Good ventilation is essential for successful growing of Bromeliads and Neoregelia is no exception. For most varieties, maintain humidity levels between 65% and 80%. Under Florida growing conditions, maintain water in the cups at all times. If the cups are allowed to dry out, the leaves may become brittle and distorted. Most large growers of Bromeliads install reverse osmosis systems to purify their irrigation water. This ensures a constant supply of high quality water for their Bromeliad program.

GROWING MEDIA

Porosity and drainage are essential for root development. If you use peat, it must be high quality fibrous peat. Various types of wood chips, fir bark, pine bark, or redwood chips are good choices to achieve porosity. Perlite is good also. Coir (coconut fiber) is gaining in popularity as a good substrate for this group. Some growers are using pure coir. There are many good commercial mixes that work well. Maintain pH at 5.0 to 5.5. Add about one pound of dolomite per cubic yard as a source of calcium and magnesium.

FERTILIZATION

N P K ratio should be 1:1:1 or 1:1.5:2. Higher levels of P and K are acceptable as long as the EC does not exceed 1.5. Use acidic fertilizers. Liquid feed at a rate of 100 to 200 ppm, depending on whether you are constantly feeding, or alternating with water. After applying liquid feed over young plants, always rinse the foliage briefly with plain water afterwards. Use lower rates of fertilizers with very young plants: 50 to 100 ppm N. Excessive Nitrogen will cause weak, elongated leaves, and can delay or prevent color in the foliage of Neoregelias. To enhance the color in Neoregelias, reduce fertilization as plants approach maturity. When potting from 4” to 6”, do not incorporate dry fertilizers. Use low rates of liquid fertilizers at a maximum of 100 ppm.

IMPORTANT: Although Copper is an essential element for growth in all plants, including Bromeliads, high levels of Cu such as Copper based fungicides are toxic to Bromeliads. Avoid such products as Kocide and Phyton 27. Another source of Copper can be certain types of pressure-treated wood. Some shade houses in mild climates are made of pressure treated lumber. Growing Bromeliads under such wood will cause damage from leaching copper. If adding supplemental trace element mixes, avoid high levels of Copper, as well as Boron, Zinc, and Manganese.

TEMPERATURE

Optimal temperatures for most Bromeliads range from 55 to 85F. Brief periods down to 45F usually won’t affect growth. Temperatures above 95F will slow or stop growth, as well as increase disease susceptibility.

DISEASES

If given good ventilation and grown on raised benches, diseases are generally not a problem.

Pythium will be a problem if medium is kept too moist. For control and/or prevention, drench with Subdue. Drench with Cleary’s 3336 to prevent Fusarium and Rhizoctonia. Helminthosporium, a leaf spot disease, can be controlled with mancozeb. Exserohilum, a leaf spot fungus which makes linear lesions, has a propensity to infect Neoregelia. A ‘sprenching’ of Dithane will provide control.

PESTS

Scale and mealybugs are the most common pests. These can be controlled with Malathion, Enstar, Mavrik, Marathon, Talstar. Horticulture Oils work well, but do not apply in excessive heat. If mosquitoes in the cups are a problem, spray with Malathion.

This text is a recommendation only; it is not an endorsement of any products or acceptance of any liability as a result of usage.